On the Road with Joe and Jill

January 27, 2012 ~ HANGIN’ OUT IN THE DESERT

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From Brigham City UT, we headed into central California to have some work done on the coach, and then found time for a short visit with our family in Southern California before heading to southern Nevada. We’d planned on volunteering at the Lake Mead National Recreation area near Boulder City NV for the winter, but circumstances beyond our control ended our stay there before it began. In order to regroup, we headed west to Pahrump about an hour northwest of Las Vegas. We took a site at one of the casino RV Parks in town, and wouldn’t cha know it, the very next day I broke my foot (…yes, again!, for those who know me). So that pretty much solidified our plans, at least for awhile. I’m still not back to normal, but hopefully soon. I love my daily walks and I’m getting very anxious. I haven’t even been able to trek around and photograph the area. Oh well, it’s given Joe time to take care of his medical appointments while we’re in the area. We also had a nice visit with our friend Dick from Mesquite, who by the way, is a VERY bad influence. We partied like it was 1999, and the next day we all realized we’re not as young as we used to be. Shame on you, Dick; why did you force us to drink so much! Well, I guess this became our winter home, whether or not we planned on it. We’ll sit tight for awhile longer, but I think we’re all getting hitch itch (Roxy and Bella included), so it’s almost time to hook ‘er up and move along!

November 23, 2011 ~ TRAVELING THROUGH UTAH

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Our first stop traveling south from Idaho’s Harriman SP in mid-September was Northern Utah. We volunteered for several weeks at Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge in Brigham City. This large refuge, a key part of the Great Salt Lake ecosystem, consists of nearly 80,000 acres of marsh, open water and uplands providing habitat for about 200 species of birds along the Pacific flyway. Joe spent some of his time out on the refuge assisting law enforcement, and I spent most of my time in the fabulous Visitor Education Center and Avocet Bookstore. This fairly new facility is one of the nicest we’ve seen in our travels. It is aesthetically beautiful and houses state-of-the-art facilities including a teaching lab and classrooms, interactive exhibit hall, theater, auditorium, bookstore, and much more. Kinda looks like an airline terminal…incredible! Once again, the staff was wonderful and we met a lot of great people. And if I’ve failed to mention this, one of the many nice things about volunteering is that they really appreciate you….and they show it. They’re very generous with their thanks and verbalize it often, unlike a lot of the private parks. They gave us an unexpected send off with lunch and a “thank you” cake, which we greatly appreciate. You’ll see our smiling faces (in a photo taken by Joe Moran) in the “Northern Utah” photo album. During our stay here, we took only one trip up to Logan and hiked to the wind cave, and I didn’t do any photographing around the refuge, so it’s a small album. I have a couple of images of the lovely Mormon Temples, but someday I’ll have to dedicate an entire album to these beautiful churches. One note of photo credit; I took only one photo of the refuge from our RV site at the bunkhouse, so the 2 shots of the visitor center--exterior and interior—were obtained from the web.
As long as we’re talking about Utah, I’ll post some images of Zion National Park and southern UT, a trip we took back in January of 2011. At the time, we buzzed in and out of the park quickly and I held the photos hoping for another Zion trip for some more interesting images. But, since we don’t know when we’ll go back, I’ll share these photos in the “Zion 2011” album and hope for some better shots another time. See ya back here next time!

October 5, 2011 ~ HARRIMAN ST PK, Island Park ID

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At the end of July, we settled in at Harriman State Park in Island Park ID, about 35 miles south of West Yellowstone MT. As we approached, our heads were bobbing back and forth trying to take in the beauty of this special area; big trees, lush green forests, cool blue rivers and streams, snow-capped mountains, and colorful wildflowers….everything we love! Due to a late winter and wet spring, the wildflowers this year were exceptional, lining the highway as well as blanketing most of the park.

In addition to the spectacular scenery and the abundant wildlife including bear, elk, moose, deer and North America’s largest waterfowl, the Trumpeter Swan, Harriman is rich in history with its roots dating back to the early 1900’s. We were fortunate to sign on for a short volunteer position at the park to give guided tours of the historic buildings, also known as The Railroad Ranch. For decades, it was a working cattle ranch as well as a hunting and fishing retreat for it’s wealthy owners including, among others, the Harrimans and the Guggenheims, both from New York. Most of the early shareholders were railroad men associated with the Oregon Short Line, a subsidiary of the Union Pacific Railroad. In fact, when you look at the photo of their dining cottage, you’ll notice the table set with china, stemware and silver from the Union Pacific dining cars. Many other cottages also have furnishings influenced by the railroad. E. H. Harriman, Chairman of the Union Pacific Railroad, purchased one of the five shares a few years after its inception sight unseen, but died the following year and never visited The Ranch. Mr. Harriman’s wife and children continued the legacy and visited the Ranch for many years. I wish I had the time and space to tell you all about it; it’s really interesting. Preserving and protecting this prime wildlife habitat was a concern for all the shareholders and was a major reason the Harriman’s decided to donate this spectacular property to the State of Idaho. In fact, the Harriman’s donated additional land in their home state of New York which is also called Harriman State Park.

Today, Harriman State Park of Idaho draws thousands of anglers to the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River, a world class trout stream that meanders 8 miles through the park. Visitors also enjoy more than 20 miles of non-motorized hiking, biking and horseback riding trails in summer and fall, and cross country skiing and snowshoeing in the winter. A few of the historic buildings are open as rentals offering comfortable, charming accommodations in the heart of this recreational wonderland. In the "Harriman St Pk" album, you’ll see what we saw as we gave our historic tours, and as we hiked and biked over the trails and through the woods.

During our brief stay here, we took a little time to tour a few of the local sites. Mesa Falls is a short drive from Harriman down a Scenic Byway and is managed by the folks at Harriman. The Johnny Sack cabin is located on the crystal clear waters of Big Springs. John was a German cabinet maker, 4 feet 11” tall, who came to the US in his 20’s as one of Island Park’s early settlers. He began construction of his unique cabin in 1929. Many of the features are on a smaller scale, perfect for his small stature. These images can be viewed in the "Island Park Area" album.

We also visited Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks during our Harriman stay. Photos from these trips appeared in the previous post.

This beautiful, peaceful area was a great home for a short 7 weeks. In fact, we enjoyed it so much, we’ll be back next June to spend the summer here again. But for now, we are heading south, on to the next adventure in search of a winter home

September 15, 2011 ~ YELLOWSTONE and GRAND TETON NAT’L PARKS

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Yellowstone is defined by geysers, mudpots, fumaroles and hot springs, not to mention the wildlife; moose and elk, bighorn sheep and pronghorn, grizzlies and black bear, wolves and coyotes, beavers and otters, and of course, bison. Birds of prey fly high, and Trumpeter Swans grace the waters while Yellowstone cutthroat trout live below. It is truly a unique place.

On a rainy gray afternoon in late July, we drove the short 35 mile route from our site at Harriman State Park in Island Park ID to the Yellowstone National Park entrance in West Yellowstone, MT. Getting a late start wasn’t of concern as we were close enough to take a sneak peak and then return another day. Even though the weather was gloomy and it was mid-week, there were plenty of visitors and minor traffic jams at the site of every elk. We made it as far as Old Faithful and the massive crowd was just dispersing as we had missed the geyser’s eruption by about 3 minutes. Our second trip in August began earlier in the day, allowing us to make it around the center loop of the park. We were told that Lamar Valley in the northeast corner of the park would be the best place to see wildlife in early morning or evening, but the timing wasn’t right and we didn’t venture that far. Just south of Canyon Village in the middle of the park is Artist Point, and Lower and Upper Falls. At Lower Falls, a parking area and short walk allowed us to get next to a rushing river and beautiful waterfall complete with a rainbow halo at its base. At the end of the Artist Point drive, the distant view of Upper Falls through the canyon was spectacular and the colors of the canyon walls were an artist’s palette; true to the name. Further along in Hayden Valley we got up close and personal with a large herd of bison who have come to own the road, and who decide when and where to stop the flow of traffic. With so much of Yellowstone left to explore, we’ll have to make a return visit. Images from these trips are in the "Yellowstone NP" album.

There aren’t too many landscapes that compare with Grand Teton National Park. (Photos are in the "Grand Teton NP" album.) On August 8^th when we visited, the weather was beautiful and the crowds were nearly non-existent, unlike Yellowstone. Although The Tetons share Yellowstone’s geologic nature, instead of rising steam, this National Park greets you with huge jagged snow capped peaks surrounded by high-elevation canyons. In addition to the alpine vistas, the other natural communities shape the Park’s scenery; lush green forests, sagebrush flats, meadows and wetlands, ponds, rivers, and beautiful alpine lakes. This park took my breath away and it will yours when you visit. We ended our trip to the Grand Tetons with a pizza in Jackson WY, and then headed back over the pass to our comfortable home in Island Park.

August 22, 2011 ~ CRATERS OF THE MOON, Southern Idaho

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Traveling east from the Boise area during the last week of July, we opted for scenic Route 20 instead of I-84, taking us past the strange but scenic landscape of Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve. The park offers lava tubes, cinder cones, camping, hiking, caving, and of course bat-watching. We made a short trip in and out, with a walk around the easy loop trail, and then hit the road moving on to our final destination. Check out the “Craters of the Moon” album.

July 18, 2011 ~ SW IDAHO: BOISE, MOUNTAINS, WILDLIFE REFUGE

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We left the Nevada desert at the end of April, and after cruising leisurely through California and eastern Oregon, we arrived in Southwestern Idaho the 3^rd week of May. Our first stop was a quiet country park in north Caldwell northwest of Boise, where we spent a week. During our stay there we took a drive north through the Boise National Forest along the pretty Payette River Scenic Byway past Cascade Lake and up to McCall. Our intent was to then travel east toward Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons, but with the Memorial Day weekend approaching, we thought it wise to sit tight for a few days. We planned to stop at the Elks Lodge in Mountain Home, ID until just after the holiday weekend, but wound up staying 10 days waiting for the weather to turn. While we waited, we took a trip along the Sawtooth Scenic Byway up through Ketchum, Hailey and as far north as Stanley. The Sawtooth Nat’l Recreation Area, Salmon River and Redfish Lake near Stanley are beautiful. As of June 4^th, quite a bit of snow remained, and old man winter didn’t seem ready to leave! With the rivers at flood stage and weather posing a problem for travel, we were still unable to head east to the National Parks, so we put it on hold for awhile. In the meantime, we landed a volunteer position with the US Fish & Wildlife Service, so we took the short trip back from Mountain Home to the Boise area to settle in for a few weeks. A few shots of the Boise area (the rose garden and the Boise River in the heart of the city), as well as photos of the 2 scenic trips can be seen in the “Boise & Mtn Areas ” album.

We’re currently volunteering at Deer Flat National Wildlife Refuge in Nampa, just west of Boise, and have met another wonderful group of people. We’re helping with various educational and outreach projects and events, and are enjoying living at the lake with the wildlife. There are ducks and birds, coyotes and marmots, squirrels and rabbits, and of course, lots of deer. I’ve become quite involved with all my furry friends who hang out in our yard, especially my little marmot buddy.

We staffed a booth at the Lavender Festival last weekend and the sweet, soothing smell of the lavender fields is still with us. It was a “you-pick” festival (…and we picked!), but by the time I got my photos, the beautiful round bushes of bright bluish-purple were almost unrecognizable. The “Deer Flat NWR” album includes images of the Refuge, our 4-legged neighbors, and some of the outreach events we hosted. Our 7 weeks here will end in a few days and we’ll finally head east. Our next volunteer position will be at a State Park in Eastern Idaho, just west of Yellowstone and the Tetons, where we’ll stay for 2 months, affording us lots of time to explore that beautiful area. Hope to have some nice images next time you stop by!

May 14, 2011 ~ DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK

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Who would think the hottest, driest, lowest location in the U.S. with the word “death” in its name could be so beautiful. In early December, late in the afternoon we entered the park with just a couple of hours of daylight left. As we drove to our first stop at Zabriskie Point, we were greeted with different textures and shapes, and layers upon layers of different colored swirls and mounds. My first impression was a smooth soft dish of chocolate and vanilla ice cream. Over at the Artist’s Palette, the chocolate-fudge ice cream hills included a hint of pistachio with a little blueberry mixed in. The colors of the volcanic and sedimentary hills here were incredible; browns and tans, greens and purples - truly amazing. Just up the road is the Gold Canyon Trail. We wandered through the twisting narrows and rock formations taking time to appreciate the geological stories that the layers reveal. Since the light was fading quickly, we called it a day and planned to revisit during our next trip through the area.

Our second trip into the park was at the end of March and began at Dante’s View, an awesome mountain-top overlook more than 5,000 feet above Badwater Basin with the surrounding snowcapped mountains in the distance. Next, just before Stovepipe Wells Village lies Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes rising nearly 100 feet from the Flat. Although I would have liked to visit later in the day to capture the ripples and patterns accentuated in the late afternoon light, our stop in late morning was worthwhile and allowed us to view tracks of nocturnal wildlife before they were disturbed. A little further along, we traveled up a long, bumpy, washboard dirt road toward Mosaic Canyon. Joe was not too happy, but obliged me as he always does. But, we both agreed that what was waiting for us was well worth the grueling drive. This narrow, polished marble-walled canyon was an incredible site and one more example of the area’s geological diversity. The midday light made photographing difficult, and once again, you just have to see it for yourself. The next stop was Badwater Basin, the lowest elevation in the U.S. at 282 feet below sea level. The vast salt flats look and feel like a firm snow pack. On the way out of the park, we took the long road south past the Ashford Mill ruins and out through Shoshone.

Sometimes it’s hard to capture the true beauty of God’s awesome creations, but the images in the “Death Valley” album will give you a taste of what to expect if you visit. Even with 2 trips into the park, we only scratched the surface of this massive wonder. Perhaps we’ll have the opportunity to return again.

January 22, 2011 ~ THE DESERT-MINING & GHOST TOWNS

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Gunfights, wild burros and nostalgic tales of gold ….that’s Oatman! East of the Colorado River between Bullhead City and Needles along Historic Rt. 66 lies the authentic old western town of Oatman, AZ (see it in the “Oatman, Arizona” album). In the heyday, the town produced millions of dollars in gold, but, like the typical stories of boom to bust, Oatman was no different. When things dried up, the miners released the burros they had brought with them in the late 1800’s, and their descendants roam the streets today. As with many old western towns, fired destroyed most of the buildings, but the Oatman Hotel built in 1902 was spared. Clark Gable and Carol Lombard honeymooned here in March 1939, and their honeymoon suite is still one of the major attractions.

On a different trip across I-40 near Barstow CA in late December, we decided on a whim to swing by Calico Ghost Town. We’d seen the sign many times but had never visited. It was now very late in the afternoon just before sunset. We made our way about 6 miles from I-40 to the parking area and hustled to walk the town before dark. Developed in 1881 in the little town of Yermo, Calico was the largest silver mining camp in California from 1881 to 1896. By 1896 the silver rush had ended, and by 1904 Calico had become a ghost town. But, this historic little mining town lives on. One-third of Calico's original structures still stand and the remaining buildings have been reconstructed. Several rock and mud structures line the streets including the remains of the Maggie Mining Company, Hank’s Hotel, a couple of Saloons and downtown stores, and a neat little home made out of bottles. You’ll see the town in our “Calico Ghost Town” album.

January 4, 2011 ~ THE DESERT-MOHAVE NAT'L PRESERVE

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About 50 miles northwest of Needles California in the Mohave National Preserve is the underground cave system of Mitchell Caverns. The history of the stalactite and stalagmite formations begins millions of years ago, and is an interesting story. Visit www.mitchell-caverns.com if you’d like to learn more. Discovered by Jack Mitchell while out prospecting for silver, the Cavern’s have been turned over to the California State Park system. Mitchell’s home, an old rock abode that blends perfectly with its surroundings, is now the visitor center. It isn’t as big as Arizona’s Kartchner Caverns, but is still worth visiting. Tours are only offered on weekends, and with the Saturday tour sold out when we arrived, we were fortunate to be invited to join a friendly, considerate family for a private tour. As I tried to photograph the challenging underground scenery, I trailed behind the group and was disciplined by the park ranger for not keeping up. Hence, I wasn’t able to get the photos I wanted. Our visit is pictured in the “Mohave National Preserve” album. Just north of the Caverns also in the National Preserve, we discovered ‘Hole-in-the-Wall’, an area of unusual rock formations. During millions of years of volcanic eruptions, uneven cooling and gases created holes in the layers of lava and ash. Erosion enlarged the holes, and over time, wind and rain transformed the landscape into its present condition. The caverns and narrow canyons between these rock walls are a fun place to explore, and with the help of metal rings mounted in the rocks on the Rings Trail, it’s possible to ascend down into the canyon for a walk along its floor. See you in a bit for more desert fun!

December 14, 2010 ~ SOUTHERN NEVADA PETROGLYPHS

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Just west of the Colorado River town of Laughlin Nevada lies Spirit Mountain and Grapevine Canyon, a great hiking area full of history. Not too far from the trailhead parking area at the end of Christmas Tree Pass is one of the earliest and largest petroglyph sites in Southern Nevada. The native rocks, darkened with desert varnish, have been chipped or scratched displaying the art work of the tribes indigenous to this area. We had a great day climbing the hills, ducking into caves, winding through rocks and ravines, and exploring the early Americans’ backyard. The images in the "Laughlin NV Petroglyphs" album convey what we saw, but not what we felt as we paused to reflect on the fact that our ancestors sat carving rocks on the very ground where we stood. It was, and is, a sacred place.